January 2020, Sailing Vessel “Tokerau”. While sailing along the Beagle Channel is very common to pick up the vhf radio and report your boat intentions to the “alcaldías de mar”. It refers to sailing areas, marine districts. The southernmost places of the world are very remote areas. Many of these districts are inhabitated just by one family. They belong to the Chilean Navy, who asks to do this job to a family, with children young enough so that they can be schooled by their parents at home.
We were reporting our position, telling them we were going to sleep at anchor in a small caleta quite nearby. But Lalo also asked them if we could visit the tiny island. They were quite surprised but accepted straight away. The approach to the little dock was not easy. The pilot booked talked about some shoals, and big kelp patches made the dinghy trip to the shore quite difficult. We ended up rowing towards the pontoon, while the other half of the crew stayed drifting near by.
We met the Medina’s. A cute family of four, plus his puppy. They were incredibly happy to have us. It was their first visit in one year! I couldn’t believe it. We brought chocolates and candies to the kids, and listened to all what their parents were telling us. They loved to do their own furniture, to take care of the plants and the birds nests, to talk to all the boats passing by through the radio… I would have loved to stay more. It was even a bit rude to leave so early, but I was not feeling relaxed with “Tokerau” at sea without me in. Although wind was very calm, we went back to the boat very soon.
I will always remember this visit, their faces and stories, how the kids run everywhere to show us all their belongings.How the whole family truly enjoyed the place and their job. And the terns, the most special terns you can find. “Syterna Paradisae”, is the bird type who migrates the longest distance every year. They fly from the Northern to the Southern Pole every year. We where in their nesting island, that strong sound while being literary surrounded by them.
